PUBLICATIONS
Bloom
Issue 20.
Description
A horticultural view
The first trend magazine for flowers and plants and how they relate to fashion, interiors and other industries. Created and edited by the world famous trend forecaster Lidewij Edelkoort in 1998.
Bloom analyses the major trends in horticulture with informative and inspirational photography and texts, and their relation to the fashion, interior and industrial design, architecture, packaging, cosmetics, and food industries.
Bloom is produced in collaboration with several highly talented artists, stylists, designers and photographers. We enjoy sharing and promoting the work of the new talents we discover. Lending horticulture a new voice through the creativity of these contemporary artists, we wish to stimulate all our readers’ senses and imagination. We choose to publish an advertising-free magazine, allowing our readers to be fully immersed in our captivating stories.
Theme: Tinctorial
Articles de recherche
Couleurs végétales, interculturel, slow design, chamanisme féminin, chaos...
http://univ-tlse2.academia.edu/DelphineTalbot
https://hal-univ-tlse2.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-02478086v1
Thèse de doctorat
Relations Europe Asie dans la conception de tendances et les pratiques tinctoriales
Essai d'ethno-poïétique
Cette thèse propose de construire une ethno-poïétique, questionnant notamment la complémentarité opératoire entre la poïétique et l’ethnographie. La première, centrale dans cette étude, est considérée comme science et philosophie de l’instauration créatrice, attentive
au caractère dynamique unissant l’homo faber à sa mise en oeuvre. La seconde, complémentaire, s’attache autant à l’enquêteur, lorsqu’il est aux prises avec le « terrain », qu’aux singularités de l’ethnos qu’il rencontre, motivé par le désir de comprendre une diversité en constante transformation et faite de divergences. Aussi l’ethno-poïétique pose-telle la question de la conception cartographique en tant que représentation dynamique. Celle-ci se donne comme objectifs de traduire des « effets-mondes » comme modélisations structurantes (incluant des chemins de traverse) et les fictionnalisations actives de l’« enquêteur-concepteur » (jouant avec le hasard). Mais aussi de concevoir des paysages chromatiques de cultures matérielles singulières, considérant les relations unissant le teinturier, le matériau colorant et le lieu de sa ponction. Pour trouver les matériaux utiles à l’invention, une étude sera menée sur les pratiques tinctoriales japonaises et sur la conception de tendances (design management). Celle-ci s’employant à combiner des « lieux images » et des énoncés performatifs pour des processus d’identification, la question de l’articulation entre mémoire et imagination sera posée à différents niveaux de l’analyse. In fine, des « pratiques-usages », des symbolisations et des techniques traditionnelles seront appropriées pour une pratique artistique contemporaine. Ainsi, une pensée de la relation va s’instaurer, en filigrane de l’étude.
Mots-clefs : couleur, poïétique, poétique, ethnographie, anthropologie, interculturel, ethno-poïésis, Japon, Okinawa, pratiques tinctoriales végétales, techniques textiles traditionnelles, patrimoine, invention, conception de tendances, design management, marketing, prospective, innovation, installation, sculpture textile, cartographie, traduction, fiction, hasard.
Relations between Europe and Asia in fashion trends design and dyeing practices
Ethno-poïetics essay
The purpose of this thesis is to build an “ethno-poietics”, questioning the operating complementarity between poietics (cf. René Passeron) and ethnography. The earliest, central to this study, is considered as the science and philosophy of creative instauration, attentive to the dynamic feature uniting the homo faber and its implementation process. The latest, complementary, focuses as much on the investigator driven by his desire to understand a divergences-made ever-transforming diversity, as on the singularities of the ethnos he comes across while on the field. Ethno-poietics raises the matter of cartographic conception as a dynamic representation. Its objectives are to translate some "effets-mondes" (cf. Barbara Cassin: sophistic) as structuring modelizations (including byroads) and the active fictionalizations from the investigator-conceiver (playing with randomness), but also to conceive chromatic landscapes from singular cultural-materials, considering the relation between the dyer, the coloring material and its place of origin. To find useful creation materials, a study will be carried on tinctorial Japanese practices and on fashion trends design (design management). It will combine "images places" and identification-processes performative utterances, the interaction between memory and imagination shall be assessed on several levels throughout the analysis. In fine, "practices-uses", symbolisations and traditional methods will be made ours in a contemporary artistic practice. A new way of thinking the relation, will establish itself between the lines of study.
Keywords : color, poïetics, poetics, ethnography, anthropology, intercultural, ethnopoïesis, Japan, Okinawa, vegetable dyeing, traditional textile technics, patrimony, invention, fashion trends design, design management, marketing, prospective, innovation, artistic installation, sculpture textile,
mapping design, traduction, fiction, chance.
Université de Toulouse, France, 2009
Direction Guy Lecerf (LARA-SEPPIA, UT2J, Toulouse) et Dominique Cardon (CNRS, CIHAM, Lyon)
"Another view on colour period in history has seen so many earthquakes, no such drought and such blasting fires, such terrifying torrential floods and a volcano erupting into clouds – which stopped the planet from traveling and trading –in the memorable year of 2010. The headline news is no longer about the politics of war, but the politics of weather. Thousands of deaths, millions of homeless, billions of dollars. Triggered by amazing products and creations, I have gone out to see things the world over. we set out to investigate the use of colour made from earth, root, bark, pistils and petals. we met amazing individuals from different countries busying themselves with alchemistic fervour to collect, ferment, blend, cook, dilute and bundle these natural hues in order to create colours for ice cream, textiles, hair, cosmetics, paint and of course, clothes. the result is hope-giving and heart-warming, a beautiful and living horticultural colour card."
Lidewij Edelkoort,
Summer 2010
Publication de 14 photographies prises dans le cadre de
missions de recherche, sur les terrains de :
Hachijô-jima (île de Hachijô, Japon - 2006) - Kobunagusa (ki iro / gold color)
Hachijô-jima (île de Hachijô, Japon - 2006) - Tabu no Ki (pourpre / lie de vin)
Symposium Colors of nature, Hyderabad (Inde - 2006) - Bois de campêche (purple)
Symposium Colors of nature, Hyderabad (Inde - 2006) - Curcuma (jaune)
Auroville (Inde - 2006) - Indigo (bleus)
